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Care of the Nigerian Dwarf Dairy Goat

A friend of ours just recently (2005) published a book on Nigerian care for the
beginner goat owner. It can be purchased through: www.cafepress.com/NDbook

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Kidding (This section is very large and page linked)

Basic Care
Nigerian Dwarf Dairy Goats, like all other goat breeds need basic care to ensure a good, long, productive and healthy life. Wether you have just 2 pet goats or a large breeding herd, basic good management practises should be a part of your goat ownership. Goats are herd animals and enjoy the company of other goats, so if it is your intention to purchase a goat, be prepared to purchase a minimum of two.

All information written here is with the Nigerian Dwarf Dairy Goat in mind. Where any calculations may be made as to feed, housing or size, it is based on the Nigerian Dwarf Dairy Goat. General management and care can be applied to any goat breed. I am by no means an expert in goat husbandry for there is so much to learn and still more, but my passion is for my goats and in knowing as much as I can to keep them healthy and me sane. I welcome any feedback on this material and also any insights readers have that can be added to help in promoting and keeping the goat industry vital.

I will attempt to address on this webpage, some areas that I feel are needed to help the beginner goatherder and maybe give some insights to the experienced goatherder that they may not have thought about. I am a strong proponent of having a good working relationship with a qualified veterinarian that is knowledgeable of goat medicine. No advice given here or by anyone in the goat husbandry should be taken in lieu of professional advice from a veterinarian when called for. Each goat owner needs to make that decision on their own and feel comfortable with the outcome of decisions they have made.

Having good friends that raise goats and a veterinarian that knows goat medicine are two essential ingredients to good goat husbandry. Neither of which are indispensable in your times of need. Don't wait until your goat is sick and you don't know what to do to try and find a friend or a vet. Start now in cultivating those needed friendships - thay are crucial. I have found these friendships in Diane and Gail and with my veterinarian, and I hold them very dear to me. These and other friends have helped me through some difficult times in raising and keeping my goats healthy and productive.

Barn Maintenance
Let's face it, no one really likes cleaning out those barns, but - Barn Maintenance is as key to the health of your goat as is the feed and health management programs you have established. Without clean housing all your other progams can fall apart and the result could be very unhealthy goats.

General cleaning should be done at a minimum of monthly intervals in warm weather, more often if temperatures are high and goats are using the barn more to stay cool. If your goats are typical of all the other goats in the world, you will notice how they love to come in to the barn to relieve themselves. This is especially true when you have just completed the chore of cleaning out the barn. You fluff up that last flake of straw bedding and in they come to soil "your" nice clean barn. I find the same phenomenom in our cats, when the litter box gets cleaned - in they come to mess up all your hard work.

Barns should be cleaned more often during warm weather to prevent ammonia gas from building up, which may result in pneumonia in goats. Don't be fooled during mild winters that the barn doesn't need cleaning. This has tragically resulted in sick animals. Do the scent test - get down on your hands and knees and if you can smell ammonia 8" above barn floor, it's past time to clean. Remember, when your goats are resting, their heads are closer to the floor then yours and they breathe in all those harmful fumes.

During winter months, used bedding in barns acts as compost, keeping goats warm against the cold. Winter months may allow for longer periods between cleaning. IF IN DOUBT ---- CLEAN!!!!! Always make sure there is dry bedding on top to keep your goats dry and away from soiled bedding. We use a product called Sweet PDZ which neutralizes the ammonia in the urine. This helps during cleaning times to aid in eliminating the harmful fumes and is safe to use with goats. We simply shake a liberal dusting layer on top of the existing bedding and then put fresh bedding on top of that. This should ONLY be used as temporary measure, as good barn cleaning should NEVER be replaced by the "easy-way-out". You only hurt your goats in the long run. We use PDZ as a part of our regular barn maintenance all year long.

Using a pitch fork, fork out all used bedding. The used bedding makes for excellent plant/tree bedding compost and can be placed around plants or tree bases for weed control and fertilizer. Once all bedding is removed, shovel up droppings and dispose of in gardens or in your compost pile.

Use of an inexpensive fly control spray or a diluted mix of Avon Skin-So-Soft in water can be sprayed on barn walls and floor to discourage insects from hanging around or to eliminate them before putting in the new bedding. As time permits, and if you can keep your goats out of the barn for a few hours - let the barn stand and air out before re-filling with bedding.

The following tools should be a part of your barn maintenance to save in hours of work and to help back fatigue. Shovel - for scraping and shoveling loose bedding, Pitch fork - for removing used bedding (invaluable in use for livestock), Broom - sweep up loose debris or for scrubbing tramped in debris, especially on hard floors, Mop & Pail - for use on hard floors to sanitize, Double rake heads - purchase 2 inexpensive leaf rakes. Take heads off. Combine together on one pole. This allows for greater surface in raking feces that tend to roll away on you, Garden fork - for turning soiled dirt, Leaf rake - for raking up all the fine bedding the other tools have left beind.

The follwing are some maintenance hints on specific floor types. Cement floors - scrape off with shovel any embedded manure. Sweep any loose debris you can to acquire a clean surface again. Clean well with plenty of water and soap. A mild low sudsing detergent is an excellent wash. Dirt Floors - rake all debris from dirt. If possible turn dirt in the heavily soiled areas to bring up fresh dirt. Dust turned dirt with PDZ or lime (livestock grade) and rake in to freshly turned dirt. Wood Floors - scrape off with shovel any embedded manure. Sweep any loose debris you can to acquire a clean surface again. If your wood floors are hard enough to withstand water cleansing, use a mild, low-sudsing detergent periodically to deodorize.

The use of lime (livestock grade) also helps to neutralize the effects of manure on any surface. This should be used liberally before bedding is replaced. Mixed well in turned dirt floors helps to keep the ground from souring. It can also be applied to solid floors to help deodorize. Lime (livestock grade) can also be used in areas of pasture where your goats tend to congregate the most, causing manure to sour. As stated earlier, we prefer Sweet PDZ. This product works the same as Lime (livestock grade). PDZ has an added benefit of sweetening the area and more importantly, actually absorbs the moisture from urine.

Proper bedding for your goats should be taken into consideration to ensure great results from all your hard work cleaning. The use of wood shavings or cedar chips on top of PDZ works well to absorb urine and keep goats dry. Put down a good layer of chips before straw bedding. Straw or inexpensive hay can be used as top bedding. Make sure it is still of good quaility, being mold and disease-free. Your goats will see their bedding as food and will nibble or eat it, so care should be taken in what you spread down for bedding. Initial bedding should be at least 10 thick fluffed inches. Goats will tramp this down rather quickly and more bedding should be added as needed to provide sufficient covering of floor. Periodically add bedding to keep area dry for goats to lay in. During cold winter months, this bedding could get quite thick and compact. Clean as gases builds up.

Cobb webs. As a note of interest, cobwebs show that your barn is "healthy" and adequately ventilated. Webs can also be used as an emergency bloodstop. So don't be so quick in eliminating all of them from your barn, you may never know when you may need them for a cut.

Purchasing
Some food for thought when buying your goats. Following is a brief comparison of what separates a reputable breeder from a "backyard" breeder.

A reputable breeder:

Raises registered breeds - a good breeder that makes the investment in registered goats will generally spend the time and energy needed to breed and sell quality goats.
Advertises their herd - a good breeder that takes the time to invest in their herd will generally take better care of the herd for selling. Advertising can be the simple ad in their local feed stores to ads in trade journals.
Always gives their best in breeding towards breed standards - a good breeder who takes the time to evaluate breedings is one who makes sure, to the best of their ability, which breedings will enhance their lines and develop the breed to be the best it can.
Participates in activities that helps them in evaluating their breeding program - a good breeder who invests time and finances in knowing how their breeding program is working will generally produce a better animal. HES or Linear appraisals, milk test, or breed shows are just a few of the added investments a good breeder will generally participate in.
Stands behind their goats when sold - a good breeder gives information to buyers on care when selling, has the experience to help their buyers through questions, maintains a good management program, has a dedication and willingness to learn about the breed through - clubs - books - veterinarians - networking, and does all the right things to be a responsible reputable breeder.

A "backyard" breeder: Sells their goats in an "as-is" condition. Has a used car sales mentality. Can't or won't help if problems or questions arise. Is not concerned for improving the breed - has a "Puppy-Mill" breeding program. Does not disbud or vet out their goats. Looks to sell fast and easy.

Be sure when purchasing your goats to ask the breeder if they parcipate in some of the items listed above that are important to you. Remember, that your goat's health concerns are based on the breeder who sold it to you, the mangement practises you have set in place, and the veteranarian who now treats your goat when it needs professional medical care.

Choosing a BUCK
As breeding season comes upon us every year, once again the question arises - do I purchase that buck this year or do I service my does? For the beginner goat breeder the wise answer is to lean on the expertise of knowledgeable breeders and have your does (serviced) bred by another breeder's buck. The reason for this is the expense in purchasing the "BEST" buck for your herd. Good quality bucks that enhance a herd are priced equal to high quality does. It is less expensive to have your does serviced then to buy a buck for a small herd.

Another dilema that faces new goatherders is the birth of their first buck into their herd that they fall in love with. We fell into this trap and kept a buck from one of our favorite does. He was gorgeous and we just "knew" he was going to be a great buck. Fortunately for us, this buck comes from great lines and has good conformation that compliments other does we have added to our herd. We made wise choices in our base stock to purchase the best we could afford to start with which produed this buck.

As new goat breeders, when we look back on the decision we made to keep him; did we make the right decision? I would honestly have to say probably not - we should have waited until we had more knowledge and experience about raising goats before keeping a buck from our herd of 3 does at that time. As stated above, we were fortunate that this breeding did produce a good herdsire that corrects toplines, front ends and produces great length and dairy character.

As a new breeder, you play russian roulette if you keep a buck from your herd if you don't know the traits or faults in your does well enough. Saving money this way as a new breeder could cost you in the long term. We have since purchased bucks with traits that will continue to improve our line and the Nigerian Dwarf Dairy Goat as a breed.

The knowledge gained as to what is a good buck can only come by time and experience in raising goats. Don't be in a rush to buy a buck, remember a buck is half your herd and purchasing the wrong one can have devastating results years down the road. If this is the year you have decided to purchase that herdsire for breeding, remember that breed improvement should always be the determining factor in your selection. You should know the faults and positive traits in your does prior to your quest for finding that buck. This way you will know what you need to improve or enhance in your does.

Another important factor to bear in mind with the purchase of a buck is his housing. Bucks need to be housed and penned separately from your does so unexpected breedings do not take place. If you milk your goats, leaving the bucks in with your does will also taint the flavor and smell of your milk and cheeses. Make sure housing is taken care of before bringing the buck home. Fencing for bucks need to be 5 feet in height so as to prevent escapes into the doe area.

What to look for in a buck, whether for service or purchase: determine what qualities in your does you are trying to strengthen or eliminate. Look for these traits in a buck in order to improve your herd by choosing a herdsire that is strong in the points you need for your breeding program. Decide what you want to breed for; a specific conformation attribute, color, size, etc. Look at the bucks dam or daughters, if available, at the breeder to see if the traits he is passing on are desirable for your needs.

Ask for pedigrees to see the lines you are buying into or to see if inbreeding will be a problem. Linebreeding is not a bad thing - remember that inbreeding and/or linebreeding is the quickest way to breed improvement. You need to be knowledgeable with this breeding method, which can only come with time. Always breed back for exceptional points when line or inbreeding, because the counter can happen to bring out weaknesses faster.

Some lines to look for to accentuate the good points: 1. Wide ribbing, 2. Long muscular necks, 3. Deep chest, 4. Dairy character, 5. Coat texture, 6. Wedges in body (head, body capacity - top and side), 7. Smooth blending of shoulders, yet sharp, 8. Straight front legs with wide arching rear legs (not posty), 9. Mammary system on dam or daughters, 10. Straight, close toes. Check testicles to make sure they are pliable and move freely in the scrotum sack. Check the testicles for any odd lumps that are either soft or hard and question the breeder. If their answer is not satisfactory, look for another buck. These are only some of the characteristics you should evaluate in a buck. There are so many others.

Keep your bucks in top condition well before breeding season. They expend a lot of energy even without the actual breeding as they go into a "rut-type" period. With some bucks, they can go "off-feed" during breeding season, so feed them well so as not to lose condition. Do not over breed bucks to does as this can also cause them to lose condition.

Once you've made your choice to either service or purchase a buck, breed your does - then sit and wait those 5 months for kidding season. Pamper yourself and your does during this time and prepare for those sleepless nights when the kids are due.

Heat Hints
Nigerian Dwarf Dairy Goats go into heat, or experience an estrus cycle approximately every 21 to 28 days. Therefore they can be bred all year round. Most breeders prefer the fall for breeding as Spring allows for the optimum in kidding temperatures. There is no fear of kids freezing in winter cold and no pests such as flies during summer heat to spread disease. This is not to say you can't breed all year, it just means more precautions need to be taken into account.

The heat cycle in Nigerian Dwarf Dairy Goats as in all goat breeds, lasts for 1 to 3 days on average with the doe in a standing heat to accept the buck during that time. The standing heat is a very short duration of the heat cycle (standing heat can be anywhere from 1 hour to 3 days) and the owner needs to be alert as to when this time occurs for breeding to be successful. A standing heat means a doe will stand for a buck and not run from him to be bred. Procreation will not take place generally outside of this time.

Things to look for in a heat cycle:
If you have a buck on premise, most does will spend their heat cycle trying to get to the buck. If a buck in not on premise, use of a buck rag can determine estrus. A buck rag is a piece of fabric that is rubbed over the facial scent glands of any mature buck. It is then placed in air-tight container. If you think your doe may be in heat, open container when and place opened container under does nose to observe reaction to buck scent. If excitement is seen (wagging of tail, becomes alert, talky, etc), doe is probably in heat and the service of a buck should be rendered quickly.

Some does become very vocal and will voice that they are in heat. Silent heats do occur, careful observation of other heat signs is then needed. A mucus discharge from the vulva which gets into the tail webbing and mats the feathers will sometimes be visable. Mounting (trying to breed other does), courting like a buck to other does, growling, rapid, excited tail wagging when they hear or smell a buck are some other more obvious signs of a doe in heat. Milk production may drop off. Does can also go off feed during this time - make sure this is estrus related and not a sign of another disease condition that can be overlooked and not properly treated. If you observe a combination of these signs, this is the time breeding is most successful. Any or all of these can be evidenced in your doe during heat. There are also those does that won't cooperate at all and not show you even the smallest of signs. Sometimes with these does the best thing to do is put them with the buck for at least a month. The buck will know when she comes into heat and you can get a succussful breeding.

False heats can occur. It looks like everything is fine, and then in a week the doe comes back into a real heat. The second heat cycle is generally the true heat and you should breed your doe again. Make sure you mark your calendars and calculate the delivery dates on all breedings so you won't be surprised. If you experience a 5 day false heat in your does, do not change the breeding buck (use the same buck you did prior) as you will never be 100% sure who the sire would be. You will never know if the doe was a 145 day, or 150 day, or late, or early on delivery. So, the reputable thing to do is to repeat the breeding so you will know 100%.

It is not recommended to leave does with a buck for extended periods of time as the energy expended on the buck will not keep him in condition for multiple doe breedings. A breeding is extremely short so don't blink or turn away, as you may miss it. After a successful breeding the doe will hunch her back, this is a good sign that the buck has bred her. After breeding, mark your calendar with date, buck name, and doe name. Wait for ~21 days. If doe does not go into heat again, you will join the ranks of the sleepless in 5 months ------ for you now have a pregnant doe to care for and kidding time is soon.

Gestation Table
The table below is an easy to use gestation calculator based on a 145 day gestatation period.Take the day that you bred the doe indicated in column Month Bred, subtract the number of days from the column marked Days. This will due you the 145 day of the month indicated in column Month Due.

Let's go through the math. If you bred a doe on October 15th (Month Bred) you would subtract 6 days (Days), making her due to freshen on March 9th (Month Due).

For a leap year freshening, subtract one more day between October 4th and February 28 for the due date.

Month Bred	Month Due	Days	Leap Year Days
September	February	-8
October	March	-6	-7 (Starting October 4)
November	April	-6	-7
December	May	-6	-7
January	June	-6	-7
Frebruary	July	-5	-6 (Ending February 28)
March	August	-8
April	September	-8
May	October	-8
June	November	-8
July	December	-8
August	January	-8

Hoof Trimming
Regular hoof trimming, about every 4 - 6 weeks is needed to prevent lameness or infection to the hoof. A correctly trimmed hoof should have the same shape as a kid's hoof. We use hoof trimmers purchased from a goat supply catalog. Utility knives can also be used, but I am too big of a sissy to take my chances with knives.

Ask the breeder you purchased your goat from to show you the proper way to trim a hoof. If the breeder can not do this, find an experienced goat breeder that is willing to help you out. This acitivity takes a lot of time and experience depending on the size of your herd. Most goats like it as much as we enjoy going to the dentist. Goats will generally fuss while having their hoofs trimmed, bucks are notorious for making the task even more formidable.

Patience and sharp tools help in getting through this every month. The tools need to be in proper condition to trim hoofs. Blunt instruments that won't cut through the hard "leathery" hoof can cause cuts to you or the goat. It is recommended to wear gloves while trimming. Many a hand has been pierced or cut while holding on to a struggling hoof. Rusty instruments should never be used to trim hoofs.

Be sure to have bloodstop on hand when trimming hoofs, as an accidental cut into the quick of the hoof may occur. Clean the wound and place bloodstop on the wound. Apply pressure if needed to make sure bleeding will stop. If a deep wound - clean wound well, pack with powdered bloodstop, bandage and secure the bandage on the hoof. Isolate the goat from the herd to prevent abuse from the other goats. Wait for a few hours until it stops and release goat back into herd after removing bandages. If the wound does not stop bleeding after a prolonged period, call your veterinarian. Make sure you are up to date on your tetanus shots!

After you have completed the major trimming of the hoof, a hoof plane could be used to plane off any bumps or rough edges left by the trimmers. Give your goat a treat for being so good while you trimmed their hoofs.

If hoofs have grown so badly and long that they look like little elf shoes, more care is needed to trim away the excess hoof. Sometimes, depending on the length of hoof, the hoof can become so hardened that normal trimming techniques will not work. Standing the goat on wet straw for an hour prior to trimming will help soften the hoofs for cutting. Use of shrubbery pruning shears that are stronger may need to be used. With these goats the assistance of another person to help would be greatly appreciated. If hoofs are grossly overgrown, take caution to remove small quantities of hoof over time (this may take weeks to get the hoof back into shape). Removing large segments at once may cause severe hoof damage, infection, and/or lameness. Remember, it has taken a long time for the hoof to get in bad condition and it takes time to bring it back to normal.

Shelter
Goats should be housed in clean, damp free shelters, not air-tight buildings; they also need to be well ventilated. A sixteen foot square enclosed area per goat is adequate. Goats need an excerise yard as well measuring at least 250 square feet per goat. They are mountain animals and enjoy obstacles to climb on.

Goats should have sufficient shelter for their size to protect them from the elements. Shade should be provided in summer and protection from winter winds. Remember that goats hate to have rain or snow fall on them. Always provide a way out of bad weather to your goats. These shelters should be bright, airy and clean.

Worming & Vaccinations
Worming should be done several times a year. Your veterinarian can help in setting up a schedule for your herd.

Annual vacinations recommended by your veterinarian for your local area should be administered to keep your goat healthy and in top condination.

Feeding
Most breeders feed a 16% - 18% protein dairy goat feed or dairy ration. Make sure your feed is specific for goats as many other livestock feeds are toxic to goats. The quantity of grain feed is in proportion to the size, age and condition of a particular goat and should be fed accordingly. Hay in the form of a good grass/alfalfa mix or pasture should be available at all times as well as mineral salts and fresh clean water to both does and bucks.

Bucks and wethers should be given special attention with their grain feed intake to help prevent urinary calculi. A feed containing ammonium chloride is recommended as their grain feed source. If this is not available then top dressing their grain with the proper amount of ammonium cholride. Adding vinegar to their water helps in keeping the acid levels in control also.

Goats need plenty of fresh water to keep them healthy. This is especially true of the pregnant and nursing doe. Water is critical to bucks and wethers also for proper maintenance of their urinary tracts.
The following are some seasonal watering tips:
Winter: bringing warm water out to your goats in winter is well worth the effort. They love it and drink more. This is very important for those bucks and wethers that need to consume more water. Milking does need the replenishment of fluids lost in providing that fresh milk we so enjoy. So go ahead and spoil them, they not only need it, but deserve it. Electric stock heaters can be used as well; making sure all wires are protected from goats having access. Summer: keeping cool clean water outside all day is essential. Again for bucks, wethers and milking does water intake is needed to keep them healthy and in top shape. Changing water periodically during the day will provide them what is needed. In extreme hot weather conditions, ice or ice packs in buckets is an option if you will be away during long periods of time during a day.

Insects & Pests
Check regularly to be sure your goats have not picked up any unwanted pests. Spray or dust for lice only if seen. Remove any ticks. Ivermectin ingestable not only works on internal parasites, but external as well. Use of any medication should be cleared through your local veterinarian before administration for dose and safety.

There are many types of fly repellents on the market. I have listed a few here. Trap-n-toss - attracts flies, and when full you just throw away. Fly strips - hang from above, when filled with flies remove and throw away. Be careful when handling, these strips are very tacky. A must for all barns. Make sure strips are away from where goats can grab and ingest. Fly bottles - hang around barn area. These may come with a solution that attracts flies. If it does not come with an attractant, canned cat food mixed with enough water to cover works great. As this becomes full - empty, clean and re-start. This is a bit messier then the other options, but less costly. 1% pyrethrum - hose spray. To be used directly on goats to repel flies on animals. Make sure spray does not get onto face of goats. Use towel to gently cover head area. Diatomaeus Earth (DE) - a 100% natural insecticide made from organic materials. We have just started using DE this year and have found it to be a long-lasting treatment for insects. It can be dusted or diluted in water and sprayed in the area. I do not use it on my goats as either a dust or give it internally for parasites. It is supposed to be safe for them, but I use the paste de-wormers at this time.

Repellents and insecticides are a help in maintaining the amount of insects and pests that will hazzle your herd, but again it gets down to your overall management practises as well. If you are not cleaning the areas where you house or pasture your goats, you will have more insect/pest concerns then you want. As my brother always says, "minimum, effort - maximum enjoyment" - if you take care in maintaining a clean, healthy environment you will have less to worry about in the long term.

Milking
Supplies:

Item	Use	Comments
Stainless steel pail	To collect milk	Any stainless steel container with wide flat bottom can be substituted (i.e.; saucepans, mixing bowls). You can use glass or aluminum, but not recommended. Do not use plastic as this retains milk smell
Milk filters	To filter milk after milking, before consumption	Milk needs to be filtered to take out any debris that may have fallen in. Use only milk filters from supply houses, coffee filters do not work as well. Filtering milk once is generally sufficient if doe is clipped and cleaned properly. Discard filter after one use. Filtering more does not hurt, but use new filter each time.
Funnel	To pour milkfrom pail to containers	Supply houses have funnels with built in filter mechanisms to make the job easier. Stainless steel is best, but other materials can be substituted.
Clorox bleach	Used to steralize equipment and udders Use a diluted solution on udders or obtain teat dip from supply house.	Clean udder with warm damp cloth with Clorox solution BEFORE and AFTER milking each doe. OR - baby wipes can be used to clean udders BEFORE milking and teat dip AFTER milking. This helps prevent udder infections.When cleaning equipment, the bleach solution sterilizes it for next use
Ice Water	To chill milk rapidly	The faster the milk is chilled the longer its shelf life and sweeter the taste. After filtering, place the container in ice water. Another help is to have a small ice chest filled with ice in the milking parlor to place the milk containers in as you milk your does.
Pasturizer	To pasturize milk	Can be purchased from a supply house. Pastuerizing is not needed unless in your management program you want to. Raw milk is safe to drink for your own consumption if your goats, equipment, and facilities are clean and disease-free.
Milk stand	To secure goat when milking	A milk stand gets the doe off the ground for ease of milking and cleanliness
Teat Tape	Stops leaks	Tape teats if doe is a self-sucker, teats leak, or to stop kids from nursing.
Milk Testing Scale	To weigh milk	Milk is tested by weight produced not volume. If you plan on being on milk test or want to keep records for your own management, an official milk weight scale is necessary.
DHIR Dipper	Used to dip milk from pail for test	Helps in getting a sample of milk for butterfat content.

Why Milk??
Milking Advantages:
You know how much milk each kid is consuming.
Udder infections can be checked and corrected promptly.
Prevents some milk diseases from spreading to kids.
Milk is used for cheesemaking and other recipes containing milk and it just tastes great!.
Milking goats is a good stress reliever from our hectic daily schedules.
If goats are shown, it keeps does accustomed to being milked on show days.
Bottle fed kids are calmed down and bond to their goatherder if sufficient time is not invested with dam raised kids.

Milking Disadvantages:
It is a commitment to milk every day twice a day.
It adds time to chore time.

Milk Test Advantages:
You know how much milk each doe is producing.
You know your herd management practices are good compared to the rest of the country.
Brings higher market value to your goats - differentiates your herd from the rest.

Milk Test Disadvantages:
It is a commitment to milk 305 days a year, twice a day.

Milk Test Pointers:
There are three forms of milk testing:
1. Circle - this involves a minimum of three herds having a minimum of two goats in each herd. Each participating herd completes testing on each other's once a month. Each herd owner must complete a training session by an approved instructor. Costs associated are economical.
2. Supervised - this is done on an individual herd basis. A certified tester comes to your farm and completes testing on all registered does. The schedule is set by tester and is usually a random call once a month. Supervisors are re-licensed annually. There are higher fees attached to supervised tests then circle tests.
3. One-Day Test - this entails finding an AGS tester in your area. The tester will come to your farm three times in a 24-hr period to see you milk out your does and test. They use a formula to project what the doe is capable of milking should she have been on 305-day cycle. Cost of a one-day test are for the supervisor fee and mileage (3 times to farm) plus any other added expenses. Costs are most economical, but may not give true milking capability on herd.

For Nigerian Dwarfs, write or call AGS or NDGA for application to get on milk test. This should be done before your does freshen so you get the full 305 day test program. Applications are accepted by AGS all year round. DRPC (Dairy Record Processing Center) is an organization dedicated to the maintaining of all dairy records on your individual goats having to do with milk test. They also maintain such stats as names, breeding, height, weight, freshening stats, etc. This organization sends results back from your milk test.

Milking Hints:
A happy doe produces better for you. Make sure you are maintaining proper management over your herd to keep them healthy and happy.* Goats should always be milked in as sterile an environment as possible to prevent udder disease and contamination of milk. Their stalls are not a good idea. A separate area, room or building is the ideal. Always keep this area clean to ensure a good milk product. * It is optional to feed goats grain at milking time. This can calm them to stand for the milking excercise.* If your doe kicks; secure rear legs to milk stand while milking by tying them to the back of the milk stand. DO NOT tie so tight as to hurt or damage the doe's legs. Eventually she will learn to stand and enjoy being milked. * Milk your does two times a day at approximately 12-hour gaps. An hour +/- will not bother the doe, but try to keep her schedule as consistent as possible. * Keeping does separated a good distance from the bucks will prevent any "bucky" taste getting into the milk. A doe's environment influences how the milk will smell and taste. * Feed good quality sweet alfalfa/grass hay to any lactating doe. * A good sweet grain of at least 16% protein will help produce a more abundant sweet milk. What your does eat ends up in their milk production.

If you choose to dam raise your kids, it is still feasible to milk successfully by separating the kids from the dam at night (around 8 o'clock). This can be done by placing them in crates in the stalls with their dams so they are still bonded and nurtured by their dams. Milk does in the morning and replace kids back with them. Kids won't need to be bottle-fed. Remember that goats are flexible. No damage will occur to the udder if your schedule should lapse every once in a while. Just don't make a habit of an inconsistent schedule. Even if you miss one milking, it won't hurt except to maybe lower production for a short period. HAPPY MILKING!!!

Pregnacy and Kidding Supplies

Item	Use
Wireless intercom	Saves time running back and forth to barn Leave sound - ON at all times
Hot pot/mug	For those cold days/nights for yourself Keep a supply of hot choc or cider on hand
Flashlight	To see what's happening in dark areas. Allows you to examine the birth process when the doe is away from light source.
Breeding Calendar	Mark service and freshening dates 145 - 150 day Gestation
Ziplock bag with index cards	For important information Vets names and phone #s, goat breeders names and #s, shots needed at birth
Pad/notecrds	To record any notes on how the doe freshened Any out of the ordinary problems or things to watch for in the next freshening - one card per doe
Occytoxin	For difficult births. Contracts the uterus - call your veterinarian as this is a prescription medication.
Molasses in water	After freshening for energy boost. Use warm water during cold season
Towels	Drying off kids. At least one clean towel per kid.
Calf velcro leg bands	To identify kids at birth before tattooing. Get multi-colors for easier identifications (Bl Blk,Gn, Yw, Or, Rd) Write Dam/Sire, DOB, Kid's Name. On Nigerians, these can be cut lengthwise and used as loose fitting collars
7% Tincture of Iodine	For dipping bloody umbilical cords right after birth. This practise helps in eliminating joint-ill and infections. Hold container tightly over cord and turn kid over to drench well. Use baby bottle, teat dipper, or any small container.
Goat Nutra Drench	Multi-vitamin for weak kids or stressed doe. Dose as directed.
Garbage bags	For dirty towels and in case of the unfortunate death of newborn.
Stethoscope	To examine internal functions if needed
Fexible tubing kid puller	Helps to pull kids out during difficult births Use milk machine cleaning cable kit (see Caprine Supply Catalog under milking Equipment)
Bottles/nipples	For bottle feeding When doe can't or prefer to bottle-feed kids
Colostrom (natural/instant)	To bottle feed kids for first 3 days When doe can't or prefer to bottle-feed kids
Uterine boluses	Inserted into uterus after DIFFICULT birth Put in immediately after freshening
Teat tape	Stop leaky teats, kids or does from suckling. Apply before freshening
Surgical gloves	Must be used when entering doe during difficult birth
KY jelly	To assist in difficult birth. Smear on gloved hands before entering doe during difficult birth
Dental floss	Tie off bleeding umbilical cord. This helps in sealing the cord so infection will not enter kid
Surgical scissors	Cut umbilical cord if still attached or long. If you need to cut the cord, tie off cord as close to kids body as possible, tie off another section of the cord about 1 inch from the first, cot the cord BETWEEN the 2 tied areas
Weak kid syringe	To get food into kid if weak at birth if too weak to suckle. Make sure colostrum is used at birth
Nasal aspirator	To suck mucus from a kids nose More prevalent in breach births. Try "tickling" under nose with a piece of straw to get kid to sneeze first.
Weigh tape	Weigh kids at birth. Put tape around heart girth for weight
Rectal Thermometer	To take temps if needed. Average goat temp 102-104
Keto stix or powder	Checks for ketones in doe for pregnancy toxemia. Signs: Weak doe, acetone breath. Administer Propeline Gycol if ketosis is present at freshening. Can supplement suagr or molasses in water

Transporting
Goats should always be transported in such a way to ensure their safety and well being. For short trips like to the Vet, neighborhood functions, friends …, use of Vari-Kennels for dogs in your car or truck with ample bedding of straw will be sufficient. Wire cages can be used, but place protective coverings on seats to prevent staining from urine or feces. Protective covers also shield them from the wind. Ample ventilation is needed at all times. Do not transport in open air vehicles as this can stress the goats and could cause respiratory problems. Tie goats, if needed with 1 foot long leads

If you are planning a long trip such as Shows, purchasing, moving… Follow the basic instructions as above, giving extra care to more bedding and the stability of your goats for a long drive. On longer drives, devise a way to have access to food and water through the use of portable hayracks and deep water containers (filled slightly) that won't allow for spillage.

If you are shipping by Air Freight, make sure you have an official air crate. You can call your carrier to get this information. Place goat in acceptable airfreight crate with ample bedding. A Vari-kennel, number 300, can hold up to 3 Nigerian Dwarf Dairy Goat kids comfortably, or 1 small adult. The size of a container should be large enough to allow for a full sized goat to lie down and turn around easily. A water bowl should be attached for attendants to provide water if needed for delays and hay in bottom for eating.

Contact air carrier prior to ship date to get the needed information for shipment and costs. Inquire if you pay upfront or if they will accept COD. Get the name of the contact person at airlines. Bring photo ID with you to the airport to identify yourself. Be at airport 1 - 2 hours before departure time. If goat's destination will put it in at night, make sure you check with airline if receiving airport's kennel will be open, if not, DO NOT SHIP!

Inform buyer to pick up goat at counter-to-counter area. This is a better service for your goats as opposed to cargo shipment. It costs a bit more, but for the comfort of your goat and ease of pick-up, it is better. Airlines are used to shipping puppies that need to be 2 months old and put that stipulation on all critters, even your goats.

Health certificates are needed from your veterinarian can be no more then 30 days old at time of shipping. If your herd IS certified TB and Brucellosis free, then kids do not need testing. If your herd is NOT certified TB and Brucellosis free, then kids and adults have to be tested. Weather is another factor to be taken into consideration when shipping. You can not ship if outside temps fall below 45 degrees or rise above 85 degrees. If shipping during winter months have Veterinarian certify on papers that goats can withstand temperatures under 45 degrees for 45 minutes. Always check weather report day of shipping.

Inter-state shipping: call your 800# to determine state by state requirements for tests and shipping: (800) 545-8732.

For Canada, Brucelosis, TB and blue tongue tests are required for kids 6 months and older.

Show Supplies

Item	Use	Comments
Electric clippers	To remove hair	Use to clip body hair. Guards are not essential. Clip in opposite direction of hair growth.
Clipper lubricant	To lubricate clippers	Use periodically during clipping to lubricate blades
Lamp oil	To keep clippers cool.	Dip blades in oil while clipping to keep clippers cool
Hoof trimmers	To trim hoofs	Use gloves to prevent injury of hands during use.
Hoof plane	To plane hoof after trimming	After trimming plane hoof to get correct shape
Brushes	Used to brush off loose dirt	Use a soft bristle brush for removal of loose dirt and hair after clipping
Sissors	To clip tails	Clip tail tip to create a brush look at the end
Shampoo	To wash after clipping	Use a mild shampoo for horse or cattle to wash after clipping if needed to remove dirt and stains
Show sheen	To bring shine to coat	Comes in either a spray or liquid to bring out the sheen of the coat. Use a mild horse or cow spray.
Milk Stand	To secure goat when milking	Don't forget a portable milkstand for those milking does after showing
Collars/leashes	To show goats in ring	Kids can be shown with leashes, adults are only shown with collars

Reminders to take to the show:
* Hay
* Grain
* Straw or bedding if not supplied
* Grain and Hay feeders
* Water buckets
* Bottles and nipples (if your bottle feeding kids)
* Salt or trace minerals
* Tie ropes
* Towels
* Brushes
* Hoof trimmers
* Milk stand/pail
* Udder wash
* Teat dip
* Clippers
* Paper towels
* First aid items (anibiotics, flyspray, disenfectants, bloodstop, bandages)
* Herd signs for above pen
* Scissors

Table of Normal Values

Rectal Temperature ....................................................... 102.5 - 104 F
Pulse ...................................................................... 60 - 80 per minute
Respiration ............................................................ 15 - 30 per minute
Puberty ......................................................................... 2 - 12 months
Estrus cycle ..................................................................... 18 - 23 days
Estrum ............................................................................ 12 - 36 hours
Gestation ..................................................................... 145 - 150 days

CAE Q&A
The following is a compulation of information gathered on CAE from questions submitted to a research veterinarian at Wash